Cabin service on an M-17 consists of passing around a bucket of ear plugs and getting one hard candy each. The flight takes about 40 minutes and reaches an elevation of 11,000 feet at it's highest. When you land in Lukla you are at the base of the Khumbu region. At 9,000 feet, the Lukla air is cool and decidedly thinner. Aromas of juniper fires, yak dung, and helicopter exhaust wash over you, displaced by a light breeze of glacial air flowing down from the Khumbu and Tibet. The smell of Everest.

Landing in Lukla

Gear is loaded onto zopkios which are male yak-cow crossbreeds that are better adapted than yaks to carrying loads at elevations below 12,000 feet. From Lukla you travel north through the Dudh Kosi valley towards Everest. The trail passes through forest, villages, and beautiful shelved green fields of new wheat. The peaceful sound of ringing yak bells is ever-present around you. Of course the lovely aroma of yak dung is also omni-present.

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journal
lukla
phakding
namche bazaar
thame
khunde
tengboche
dingboche
the pyramid
gorak shep
kala pattar
base camp
index